Kailash Mansarovar Yatra 2017 Experience - A Journey towards the Divine
Kailash Mansarovar Yatra (KMY 2017) - A Divine Journey
ॐ नमः शिवाय
I am sharing my personal experiences of Kailash Mansarovar Yatra, which I took in 2017 (last batch), through this writing. This blog is for all, especially those who wishes to go to Kailash, but can't, and hence would like to visit it through someone else's eyes. This is also for all the future yatris to help them preparing for their yatra.
The pictures used here are mine as well as collected from other yatris.
The pictures used here are mine as well as collected from other yatris.
A part of yatra route in Tibet
All the yatris arrived at Gujrati Sadan Samiti (GSS) on Day 1 to gear up for the next day schedules and day after. Each yatri was allotted a bed in the dormitories. We were responsible for our own belongings. The food (breakfast lunch and dinner) were free from this day onwards. In the evening, a small briefing session took place to explain the coming days’ schedules. Next morning, we reached DHLI by bus. The bus facility was given by Delhi Government. We were called by our names and given a form with our details to sign on it. Later, our passports were deposited for verification along with the Chinese visa fees of INR 2400. After paying a sum of INR 3150, we were ready to undergo the tests. Breakfast and lunch were provided by the hospital- good quality food. The reports of the tests were sent to ITBP Headquarters Delhi. There was a small seminar on High Altitude Sickness in DHLI. Its helpful and one should attend it attentively.
Next morning, we all left reached ITBP HQ by bus from GSS. A briefing on the yatra was done and few tips were given on what and what not to do during the yatra by ITBP personnel. Later, each yatri was called based on their serial number to get the result. We were the smallest batch of 34 people. Everyone was declared medically fit. There was immense joy in the group. After lunch, we were free for the rest of the day.
A part of yatra route in Tibet
All the yatris arrived at Gujrati Sadan Samiti (GSS) on Day 1 to gear up for the next day schedules and day after. Each yatri was allotted a bed in the dormitories. We were responsible for our own belongings. The food (breakfast lunch and dinner) were free from this day onwards. In the evening, a small briefing session took place to explain the coming days’ schedules. Next morning, we reached DHLI by bus. The bus facility was given by Delhi Government. We were called by our names and given a form with our details to sign on it. Later, our passports were deposited for verification along with the Chinese visa fees of INR 2400. After paying a sum of INR 3150, we were ready to undergo the tests. Breakfast and lunch were provided by the hospital- good quality food. The reports of the tests were sent to ITBP Headquarters Delhi. There was a small seminar on High Altitude Sickness in DHLI. Its helpful and one should attend it attentively.
There was again a small briefing the day after at MEA (Ministry of External Affairs), again and this time, it was by a Liaison Officer of Batch 12 who shared his experiences of yatra. We received useful information from him. His main suggestion was to have a pony and a porter throughout the yatra. It really makes yatra very easy. After the briefing, KMVN personnel arrived to collect the bonds and INR 30000. On returning to GSS, we tried to finish our packing and got ready for the Bhajan Sandhya organized by Delhi Govt to instill Bhakti Ras in the atmosphere.
As per schedule, during the dawn of Day 5, we were ready to start our yatra. A lot of Kailashis came to see us off. After pooja, we headed towards Almora and our first stop was Gaziabad for breakfast. There was a small ceremony where few yatris were honored. After having breakfast, we continued our journey. Crossing the NCR, the bus reached Kathgodam where our lunch was organized. There was a young group singing beautiful bhajans on our arrival. After lunch, we had left in two different buses. Enjoying the beauty of Uttarakhand, we reached Almora in the evening, where our dinner and night stay was planned. The KMVN lodge was no less that a three star hotel!
Next morning, we left for our destination for the day which was Dharchula. On the way, we had breakfast at one of the KMVN facilities and moved towards Pithoragarh for lunch via Mirthi. Mirthi is a big town and has ITBP Unit 7 HQ. Unit 7 is that unit of ITBP which accompany the KMY yatris till Lipulekh Pass of Indian side and the responsible jawans take care of us in any emergency. The unit organized a folk dance to welcome us and we got the chance to dance with them. It was so much fun. There was a special respect for all the Kailash yatris. 
There was a presentation on the precautions to be followed during trekking on yatra path. The presentation was very helpful and the yatris should follow the given instructions. There was a tree plantation and light the lamp ceremony for the Shaheed jawans. A group photo was taken here.
KMY 2017- Batch 18
After this we moved towards Pithoragarh where again a tree plantation ceremony took place. All these are to promote Himalayan greenery which isreally an appreciable step. After having lunch, we left for Dharchula. Traversing various small beautiful towns, we reached Dharchula around 8pm. The KMVN guest house was located just beside the Kali Nadi and we could hear the kal kal sound of the flowing river. The most interesting thing was that Nepal was just a door away. Don't believe? See this..
India-Nepal separated by the bridge and the border gate
As per schedule, we were supposed to stay in Dharchula for a day. But as we were supposed to be heli-lifted, it demanded for an extra day at Dharchula. These two days, we roamed around the city, visited museums, and went to Nepal etc. Rang Sangrahalaya unfolds the history and culture of Dharchula. Indian sim BSNL works till Dharchula. The third day, we all reached Budhi by helicopter. It was a beautiful 14 min ride from Dharchula.
In the evening, some of us went to Budhi village which was around 2kms from KMVN camp: - Beautiful Village.
Aerial view of a part of yatra path
In the evening, some of us went to Budhi village which was around 2kms from KMVN camp: - Beautiful Village.
On 11th day, we all were ready to trek along the way to Gunji. A small part of the trek from Budhi to Chialikk was steep and a bit challenging. But we kept on chanting “Om Namah Shivaya” and we didn’t even realize when all the hurdles were crossed. Rest of the trek was plain. Though ITBP trucks helped us in covering a part of the route, there were still some yatris who preferred to walk till Gunji.
Are they talking about us? Ofcourse.. Whom else!!
Late in the afternoon, we went for a walk to nearby Gunji village which was pleasant.
As our Lipulekh crossing was delayed by 5 days (due to incident in Malpa), KMVN proposed us a one night home stay at Navigaon. Navigaon is a beautiful small village (around 3kms from Gunji) which is situated on the path of Aadi Kailash. This home stay is also a means to promote the tourism in these regions. The total population of Navigaon was 40. The gram Pradhan (who was a young lady) welcomed us on our arrival. After the grand welcome, we were served lunch. The food was delicious (especially the sweet sour chutney which they make from some special plants growing in the region) and yatris couldn’t stop complementing the hosts for their services. The habitants of Navigaon were extremely kind. Our rooms were super clean. During tea time, the yatris enjoyed trying the traditional costumes of the region. It was interesting.
Later, a small musical evening was organized by the hosts to make yatris familiar with the regional culture. There were folk dances and songs performed by locals. Later, the yatris took up the charge and we sang and danced a lot, both on bhajans and filmy songs. With appetizing, the night came to an end.
Cultural exchange at Navigaon
The next day, we left Navigaon and reached Gunji during lunchtime via RongKong. Rongkong is again, a small pleasant village nearby Gunji. There was a Gompa built in the middle of a pond and one needed a little confidence in crossing the wooden log which took to the Gompa. The surrounding was sublime. In Gunji, one cannot miss this very natural image of Lord Shiva.
Can you see something on the top?
In the evening, we went to the temple in the premises of ITBP camp where the festival of Ganesh Chaturthi was being celebrated. The ambience was very reverential. Everyone prayed to pass the medical test which happened the next day and all yatris were declared medically fit.
After four days of stay at Gunji, we continued our journey towards next stopover, i.e. Nabhidhang. It consisted a trekking of a total of 18kms- 9kms to Kalapani and 9kms onwards. Kalapani has its own spiritual existence as it is the origin of Kali river. There is a very beautiful temple of Kali mata where one can also see the origin of the Kali river. In front in the mountains, Vyas gufa can be seen where Ved vyas wrote some of the great epics.
Kali Temple
After having a delightful breakfast at Kalapani, we continued our journey towards Nabhidhang passing through the astonishing routes of Himalayas. During lunch time, we reached our destination for the day. It was cold and oxygen was less there. Nabhidhang has got its name from nabhi parvat, which can clearly be seen from KMVN camp.
Nabhi Parvat
OM Parvat
OM Parvat
Below is one of my favorite pic which can give anyone an appetite to go for this yatra.
How many rainbows do you see? Well.. There is a third one as well!!
We handed over our luggage around 6PM as we had to start at 2AM IST to be there at Lipulekh Pass before 9AM CST. Everyone went to take rest after the dinner. The tea was served half an hour after the midnight and later, everyone was ready to continue the journey towards one of the historical passes of Indian-Tibetan border- LIPULEKH..
Takalakot via Lipulekh Pass
On day 17, we reached Lipulekh Pass around 5:30 AM. It was really cold. We waited for around an hour for the Chinese authorities to come and pick us up. The sudden change of time from 6:30AM to 9AM is a unique experience for yatris- just a while ago, it was 6:30 AM and a second later, its 9AM. The infrastructures are appreciable on Chinese side. We reached Takalakot after a two hours journey which included magnificent sceneries of Tibetan plateau, a small briefing and custom and immigration checking.
Roads to Takalakot
Rooms in Takalakot were nice. WiFi was available which made easy to communicate with the family. Takalakot has a small market with good choices (if searched well). Purchasing demands some bargaining (say 30-40%).
Who won't like to have a temple like this at his place!!
After staying two days in Takalakot, we headed for Darchen which was the last town before we start the parikrama. On the way, we stopped over at Rakshas taal (one of the biggest and highest salt water lake in the world)- breathtaking view- the dunes like mountains in the background with slanting sun rays, blue colored water and many more hidden charm. You cannot leave without admiring its beauty, although you are not allowed to go near or touch its water.
Rakshas Taal
Just a few kilometers away from Rakshas Taal, lies the holy Mansarovar lake. We stopped over there to spend some time and to take a dip for those who wished to. As it was afternoon, the temperature of water was perfect to take a dip. It has to be noted that a part of Mansarovar’s parikrama was completed before reaching Darchen (by bus). Darchen is a small beautiful town almost on the feet of Mt. Kailash. One can get the first glimpse of Mt. Kailash as well as Ashtapada from here if the weather is friendly. There were other beautiful views sceneries as well.
Darchen
There are nice accessory shops in Darchen where you can buy gifts for the family (especially for female members). It feels nice to roam around in the town.
Kailash Parikrama
We started our parikrama on the 20th day. We reached Yamdwar by bus. Our guide explained us its significance along with showing the different mountains nearby which had their own importance.
The Yama Dwaar
The parikrama path is almost plain, with little ups and downs sometimes. One can never get enough of the natural beauty which is hidden in these Himalayan regions. A lot of sacred rivers originates here and flows parallel to the yatra path.
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| The Brahmaputra |
One can have a marvelous view of Great Kailash when reaching its West Face.
We reached Derapuk in the afternoon. This was our halt for the day. After lunch, some yatris proceeded towards Charan Sparsh. It has to be noted that Charan Sparsh is not in the itinerary and depends a lot on the permission of Liaison Officer as well as our guides. We were lucky to have the authorization. It was a 3kms steep path, but everyone was full of motivation. All the way, we could see holy Kailash in front of us which seemed to be calling us. The air was full of Spirituality. The experience was extraordinary. We couldn’t be closer to Lord Shiva than being there on his feet.
Kisi ne sach hi kaha hai..
Bhole baba se milna aasan nahi, toda kashta uthana padta hai!!
Charan Sparsh at Kailash
Dolma Pass
The second day of parikrama was a bit more challenging as we were supposed to cross the highest altitude of the yatra (~5600 mts at Dolma Pass). One has to be very careful about his/her health (especially those who walk) as the deficiency of oxygen can be easily felt. Even some youngsters needed to use oxygen spray at this point. The weather was great (sunny, no wind, no rain, no snow) and the view at Dolma was breathtaking.
On the way to Dolma Pass.. Magnificent!!
Gauri Kund
Down to Dolma, there was a tea point, and parikrama was considered to be half completed when reaching there. We relaxed a bit, had our noodles for lunch and continued towards Zunzhui Pu. After reaching to our destination for the day, some yatris went to the nearby monastery (which was indeed dazzling). After the dinner, we all went to take rest to charge ourselves for the third and last day of parikrama.
The next morning, we started from the Zunzhui Pu to reach the bus point from where we needed to complete the yatra by bus followed by the remaining Mansarovar parikrama. On completing the foot part of parikrama, we sensed a thrilling and spiritual experience (again it’s a personal feeling). Few yatris became emotional, but everyone was super contented.
Mansarovar parikrama
After completing the full parikrama, we reached back to Darchen, picked up our luggage and were ready to go to Qugu (Mansarovar). It was beautiful, sunny and pleasant weather when we reached Qugu. The first thing everyone did was taking a holy dip, before the water got cold. It felt amazing. Also, due to clear weather, we had a very nice view of holy Kailash from here.
The Great Kailash and The Holy Mansarovar Lake
One can witness unbelievable things nearby Mansarovar during Indian Brahma Muhurt time. My suggestion is that everyone should experience it.
Next day, we all gathered near hawan kund to do the final ceremonies of the completion of parikrama and the main aim of yatra. Everyone put on new clothes. We had a scholalry Brahmin yatri in our group, who accomplished the yagna in a very systematic way. It was very emotional moment for each yatri as we felt that the motive for which everyone was together since 24 days and for which we travelled so far, was successful.
After the hawan, we had Prasad (halwa poori) and rest of the day was free for everyone.
We completed the rest of the Mansarovar parikrama by bus. Before returning back to Taklakot, we went to the very famous Ram Temple (Khojarnath Temple), which was just nearby. The ashtadhatu murti of Lord Rama was very glorious and shining like a star. The unique thing about this temple was that the parikrama was to be done via a cave which was completely dark and neither a single ray of light could reach inside nor were we allowed to use a torch. It was interesting to witness the different beliefs for the same religion around the world.
Khojarnath Temple
Since we were the last batch of KMY for the year 2017, we were invited for a “farewell party” by the Chinese authorities in the evening of our last day of stay in Takalakot. There were some snacks, some random performances by them as well as from our yatris. Everyone was given a souvenir.
The following day, we reached back to Lipulekh Pass starting from Takalakot (not very early), where ITBP and KMVN personnel were waiting for us. The weather was good (neither windy, nor cold) which made trekking easier. We had our breakfast (as we were back in India, so IST was applicable) at Nabhidhang (Lipulekh <-> Nabhidhang = 9kms). We continued our descent and reached Kalapani for lunch, spent some time in the divine temple of Kali and reached back to Gunji in the late afternoon. In the evening, there was a farewell dinner organized by ITBP camp of Gunji. There were choices along with good music. As the trekking route was still not fully recovered, we were supposed to be heli-lifted to Dharchula, which again took almost two days (for the whole group).In Dharchula, we were invited by Indian Army for evening snacks in the honor of completion of the holy Kailash Mansarovar Yatra for the year 2017. We felt really honored being among those who serve our country day and night. I can assure that their lives are really tough, especially those posted in high altitudes where very limited resources are available.
Jageshwar Shiva Temple
Last second day, we reached Jageshwar in the evening via Mirthi and Pithoragarh. Jageshwar has the very famous Jageshawar Jyotirlinga (partially considered) situated in an extremely beautiful temple. There is this wonderful Ganesh and the Ardhnarishwar tree. We attended the evening aarti. Spiritual environment!!
Jageshwar Temple
It was 29th day of the yatra when we reached back to Delhi after a long journey. The stay for that evening was at GSS for those who wanted to stay there. We bid goodbye to each other with moist eyes as this experience was unique and generated a special bonding among all of us.
I thank Shiv Shambhu for helping me in completing this yatra successfully and be there with me all the time to motivate me.
Gaye the hum bhole k dwaar
Deh wapas aa gayi aatma wahi reh gayi!
Aisa jaadu kiya baba ne hum par,
Ruh ko talashne har saal jane ki aas de di !!
There was so much of love, respect and devotion everywhere throughout the yatra. Though feeling can’t be described in words, I still tried to share some.
Suggestions/Information/Advices:
- Satellite phones are available in Budhi, Gunji & Nabhidhang
- There is no telephone signal after Dharchula.
- Travel light with qualitative things.
- Foreign exchange facility is available in GSS on prior request.
- Follow all the advices given during briefings
- Keep on hydrating yourself.
- Whenever you are tired at any point of time, relax, take deep breaths, have a sip of water/ORS and then continue.
- Don’t generate the competitive feeling while trekking. Progress on your own pace.
- Don’t get crazy about photography in dangerous areas. Safety comes first.
- Remain calm while undergoing the medical tests.
- Don’t take any medicines without consultation. Generally, ITBP doctors accompany the yatris till Lipulekh Pass. After that, we are on our own
- Wi-Fi is available in Takalakot.
- Don’t click any confidential/controversial pictures. The Chinese authority checks all the photos in the camera and destroys them if they find them objectionable.
- The bathing is good but one should try not to expose himself a lot to the atmosphere as it can act against us (applicable from Budhi itself)
- Some people like to wear new clothes on the hawan day. Personal choice
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ReplyDeleteVery beautiful writing and useful information. Thanks for writing it.
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